Jil Sander RTW Fall 2023 – WWD

The biker look that opened the Jil Sander show on Friday night suggested Lucie and Luke Meier had changed gears with their latest co-ed effort. They paraded an edgier mix of urban attitude and couture accents, injecting some unpredictability into a brand with such a precise identity. Yet the couple always manages to add a lyrical component into their approach, which is what really sets their tenure at the brand apart. In what they described as “a quite personal” collection, the Meiers reasoned on “why we do what we do” and went down memory lane to the mid- to late ‘90s, a formative period in their journey. “I was in New York and Lucie was still in Europe. It felt like a really interesting time because you had a real beginning of sharing of things: a lot of information sharing, a lot of cultural mixture and, probably, most predominantly in music,” said Luke Meier backstage. He particularly referenced Björk, whose music was included in the show’s soundtrack, along with some choice LTJ Bukem. The collection reflected the openness Meier mentioned by blurring boundaries between sportswear and tailoring; natural and synthetic; elongated and voluminous proportions; artisanal and digital embellishments. Research into
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