A Good Summer for Exploratory Alpinism in Pakistan – Explorersweb »

This summer, climbing in Pakistan is more focused on alpinists attempting new routes on lesser peaks than on the 8,000’ers. Two Japanese have joined the Italians on K7, and a strong Czech team approaches its preliminary goal. Storm foils Italians at 6,000m Matteo della Bordella, Mirco Grasso, Luca Ducoli, and Giacomo Mauri climbed up to 6,000m on a completely new route on the southeast face of K7, before a storm pushed them back to Base Camp. Della Bordella described the mixed terrain as completely vertical. “It’s a huge dream, but we feel we’re touching it with our fingertips,” he wrote. The climbers are using capsule style — a style in Himalayan climbing where climbers rappel down to portaledges at the end of the day, then jumar up fixed ropes the following morning to where they left off. Della Bordella told Lo Scarpone CAI (the news bulletin by the Italian Alpine Club) that they need at least four days of good weather to summit. They planned to remain in Pakistan until July 6, but might be able to extend their stay for another week. Japanese making a 2nd attempt on the SW ridge While patiently waiting for better weather, the Italians
Read More