I have eaten dim sum with my bare hands while sitting on a San Francisco sidewalk. I have grabbed steaming plates of chicken feet, flaky-creamy egg tarts and crisp-fried taro balls off clattering carts in the close confines of beloved and oft-aging restaurants from New York to Orlando and beyond.But I have never eaten it in a place as fancy as the palatial YH Seafood Clubhouse in Doctor Phillips, a gleaming, gilded space well-suited for both the ‘hood — and the legions of locals and tourists who’ve been jamming the place since it opened last spring.[ Orlando chefs help guests step outside their culinary comfort zones ]YH is another Orlando feather in the cap of the Tampa-based Yummy House group (hence the initials), the founding team of which originally hails from Toishan, China, and whose empire — hatched in the realm of the Bucs back in 2008 — now stretches into Sarasota, Gainesville, Ocala and the City Beautiful.Steamed jumbo oyster: super-sized decadence dressed in garlic and soy. (Amy Drew Thompson / Orlando Sentinel)Dim sum here — served daily from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (a la carte menu also available) — is both decadent and delicious, but it was on my first visit, at
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